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Hiking Charlie’s Bunion

Intro

Delving into the etymology of Charlie’s Bunion reveals a historical tale of exploration during the earliest days of Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Famed author and adventurer, Horace Kephart, was leading a reconnaissance trip high into the remote Saw-tooth region of the Smokies. This knife-edged ridgeline runs between the Mt. LeConte and Mt. Guyot massifs; its airy undulations are some of the most remote parts of the Park — and a profile view of the 10 mile stretch of peaks resembles the serrated edges of a saw. Warn out from the rigors of exploration Kephart’s companion, Charlie Conner, removed his boots during a break and revealed a set of haggard feet. His mangy extremities resembled the nearby bulging outcropping of rocks known then as Fodderstack. Kephart, one of the Great Smokies’ greatest advocates, proposed renaming the rock Charlie’s Bunion to commemorate his misery.

What Makes It Great

Charlie’s Bunion can be reached by a 4-mile hike on the Appalachian Trail. A picturesque drive to Newfound Gap (sight of the Park’s inauguration) leads to the start of this scenic hike. Forests of fragrant firs line the rocky path and long range views will entertain your eyes as you make your way north on the AT. This particular section of the AT has a total elevation gain of 1,600 feet and climbs to over 6,000 feet on the sides of Mt. Kephart as it leads to the Bunion. Nearly 3 miles into the trail, hikers are offered a reprieve from the rigors of trail life at the Icewater Springs Shelter. Bring a water filtration system and nourishment for a high country hiatus at this “life-list” shelter. Icewater Springs is home to amazing Appalachian views and a perpetually cold water source, making it an ideal resting point on your way to the Bunion.

Four miles into your hike, a signed spur trail on your left will lead you in the direction of Charlie’s Bunion. Explore the area carefully; large drop offs and loose rock here will require your utmost attention. Your reward for reaching the Bunion is paid off in views.The area is walled in by the beautiful behemoths: Mt. Kephart, Mt. Guyot, and Mt. Leconte. An uninterrupted westward view over the sprawling green expanse of Eastern Tenessee opens up on the summit.

Who is Going to Love It

If you’re looking to experience the Appalachian Trail — sans blisters and without walking all the way to Maine — then you will love this 8-mile out-and-back sampling of the world famous trail. Adventurous scramblers will find a playground on the rocks and photographers can capture amazing sunset views from this precipitous peak.

Directions, Parking, & Regulations

From Asheville, an hour and half drive will take you to the Newfound Gap parking lot where you will begin your hike northbound on the AT. Ample parking and restroom facilities are also available at Newfound Gap.

A day hike to the Bunion does not require any permits or fees.

If you wish to stay at the Icewater Springs shelter make reservations in advance. This shelter is quite popular and a permit is $4 per night, per person.

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Featured image provided by Justin Meissen

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Whitewater Paddling Near Asheville

With 38 inches of annual rainfall and dam released rivers that run throughout the year, the Asheville area in Western North Carolina is one of the top paddling destinations in the United States. The laid back Blue Ridge culture compliments the surreal beauty of the mountains and the remote gorges that the rivers have cut through them.

French Broad River

Paddlers enjoying the splashy class II rapids of the French Broad.
Paddlers enjoying the splashy class II rapids of the French Broad.

The most popular stretch of the French Broad is the 3.5-mile intermediate run between the Madison County put-in and the Stackhouse take-out. Although it won’t present much of a challenge to the expert paddler, the beauty and seclusion of this run makes it a favorite for whitewater enthusiasts across the board. Paddlers will enjoy an even distribution of splashy class II and III rapids with a few sequences and holes to keep it punchy. For a longer day, continue to the second take-out in  Hot Springs and enjoy two larger rapids along the way: Frank Bell’s (IV) and Kayaker’s Ledge (III+).

After a heavy rain, expert kayakers can tackle the challenges of the North and West Forks of the French Broad River. These two creeks have a completely different temperament than the friendly features of Section 9. Although the North Fork is considered a class IV creek, it includes two class V rapids and some mean sieves. The West Fork is solid class V with bigger drops and bigger threats than its brother. A missed line on either of these creeks could have serious consequences. Be on the lookout for the additional dangers of errant wood and lumber.

The Green River

David Clarke running Gorilla on The Green River Narrows.
David Clarke running Gorilla on The Green River Narrows.
Melina Coogan

The scenic, dam-release Green River, which runs roughly 300 days out of the year, is considered the Holy Grail of whitewater in the Southeast. Three distinct sections of river offer a beautiful day of paddling for boaters of all abilities. The boulder congested Green River Narrows, a low volume, class V steep creek, serves as the main staple for advanced paddlers. Precise boat control is necessary to navigate the big slides, mandatory boofs, and tight rapids that plunge through a heavily forested gorge. Expert kayakers from across the country visit the Green to test themselves against The Big Three: Gorilla, Sunshine, and the sinisterly named Go Left or Die.

The Upper Green is an enjoyable 3.7-mile run of class III rapids. This ideal learning spot includes two challenging III+ drops: Bayless’ Boof and Pinball. The take out includes a brutal uphill hike, but for boaters who dream of one day running the Narrows, it’s well worth the cost. The mellow Lower Green is rippled with class I and II rapids for a fun and easy float. This stretch is perfect for beginners looking to log some river miles and nail their combat roll.

Big Laurel Creek

Tucked into a deep, wooded gorge, the class III/IV Big Laurel Creek provides an excellent introduction to creeking. Ambitious intermediate paddlers will love the forgiving nature and epic feel of this Appalachian gem. Dropping over 200 feet in 3.7 miles, the river offers up three major rapids linked together with tons of fun moves. The first big drop, Stairstep, is found one mile down the run and can be easily scouted on the trail on river left. Be wary of the next rapid, Suddy Hole, as the big, boxed-in hole on river right is the most dangerous feature on the run. Luckily, it can easily be avoided by a taking a clean line just right of center, off the river-wide ledge.

The run begins in Hurricane and concludes in Hot Springs, where it joins the French Broad River. From here, you can hike your boat upstream and take out at the Stackhouse or continue down the second portion of Section 9 on the French Broad. If you choose to continue, you will be faced with Windy Flats, a shallow, two mile stretch of flat water, before you’re rewarded with the two most challenging rapids of  Section 9, Frank Bell’s, and Kayaker’s Ledge.

The Nolichucky Gorge

Kayakers walking the shuttle on the Nolichucky River.
Kayakers walking the shuttle on the Nolichucky River.
Melina Coogan

The Nolichucky River is a beautiful and playful intermediate run just over the border in Tennessee. Nearly 9 miles long, this all day adventure is perfect for a warm spring day, although when the sun drops below the gorge it can get cold fast, so pack accordingly.

You will be greeted with a series of splashy, straightforward class III rapids downstream of the railroad trestle at the put in. The first major drop, a bouncy chute known as On the Rocks, has a clean line straight down the tongue. After this, you will find a set of waves and a big, juicy hole called Jaws, one of the best play spots in the area. Make sure you’re aware of the water levels, as this normally friendly hole can get sticky above 2,000 CFS. Your next big drop will be Quarter Mile, by far the most dangerous of the river. This class IV rapid culminates in a nasty, recirculating pourover called Murphy’s Ledge. There is a solid eddy above the rapid and its entire length can be scouted from the train tracks. From here, the river mellows out with more fun class III and small waves, the perfect playground for anyone just learning to surf.

 Pigeon River

Erich Burton surfs the play hole on the Pigeon River.
Erich Burton surfs the play hole on the Pigeon River.
Melina Coogan

The Pigeon River is the next step for the progressing kayaker after they have mastered Section 9 of the French Broad. This five mile run winds along the Eastern boundary of Great Smoky Mountain National Park. It is packed with big water class III-III+ rapids with names like Roller Coast, Accelerator, and Powerhouse. Pushy, bouncy waves make for a thrilling but not too threatening ride for intermediate paddlers. The single class IV rapid, Lost Guide, has a juicy hole that can be sneaked on the side. Play boaters will have their pick of features for surfing and wave wheals.

This river is dam released; the water is turned on from 11:30 am to 6pm. Because of its popularity and easy accessibility, you will probably find yourself surrounded by many others enjoying themselves in rafts and kayaks. This is a recent occurrence in the river’s history: for the majority of the 20th century, severely polluted from a paper mill, the Pigeon was declared biologically dead. It was even known to locals as The Dirty Bird. It wasn’t until the early-2000s, when fish, snails, and mussels were reintroduced to the waters, that the river came back to life. Soon after, paddlers flocked to this once abandoned river, although it is still threatened by contamination.

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Featured image provided by Melina Coogan

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Done in a Day: Exploring the Southern Smokies from Sylva

Just 20 miles from the southern edge of the Smokies, the western North Carolina town of Sylva provides a strategic launch point for exploring one of the country’s most beloved natural wonders — Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The national park, spread between North Carolina and Tennessee, is the most visited in the country, boasting 16 peaks above 6,000-feet and 850 miles of trails. Even better, the park is easily accessed from Sylva courtesy of a lofty stretch of the Blue Ridge Parkway, the iconic motorway linking the Smokies with Virginia’s Shenandoah National Park.

Waterrock Knob

The stunning view from Waterrock Knob.
The stunning view from Waterrock Knob.
Nick Breedlove

Stretch your legs and get an eyeful of the Smokies before even reaching the park with a stop at Waterrock Knob, the southernmost visitor center on the Blue Ridge Parkway (milepost 451.2). From the visitor center’s overlook — or the 6,292-foot summit of Waterrock Knob, accessible via a brief but steep 1.5-mile trail — the Smokies ripple into the distance, a seemingly endless sea of peaks, framing the historic city of Cherokee and the Qualla Boundary, a massive swath of land owned by the Eastern band of the Cherokee people.

Oconaluftee Visitor Center

Mingus Mill offers visitors a glimpse into 19th century life in the region.
Mingus Mill offers visitors a glimpse into 19th century life in the region.
Ken Lund

The Blue Ridge Parkway delivers visitors to the park’s southeastern entrance, in a valley along the Oconaluftee River. Aside from the stunning backdrop, the park’s Oconaluftee entrance is also deeply entranced with cultural history. Just a short stroll from the Oconaluftee Visitor Center, the Mountain Farm Museum and nearby Mingus Mill immerse visitors into the existence of the region’s resourceful 19th century settlers with a collection of authentic artifacts and structures.

Just outside the park, the early history and legacy of the area’s first inhabitants is explored at the Museum of the Cherokee Indian and the Oconaluftee Indian Village.

The area surrounding the Oconaluftee Visitor Center is also a hub for some excellent animal viewing, most notably elk. Once abundant across Appalachian ecosystems, elk were extirpated from the region by the middle of the 19th century, as a result of enthusiastic over hunting. Elk were reintroduced in Great Smoky Mountains National Park in 2001; in the last decade and a half, the herd size is believed to have grown to more than 100 animals. Most frequently found lingering in the Cataloochee area of the park, grazing elk can also be encountered grazing the patchwork of fields flanking the Oconaluftee Visitor Center, especially at dusk and dawn.

Oconaluftee River

The Oconaluftee River is one of the park’s trout fishing strongholds, ideal for anglers in pursuit of brown or rainbow trout. In the southeastern corner of the park, the waterway is also paralleled by 1.5-mile Oconaluftee River Trail, which leads from the Oconaluftee Visitor Center to the edge of Cherokee (and is one of only two trails in the park where dog walking is permitted).

Mingus Creek Trail

The Mingus Mill Trail offers hikers access to the summit of the 5,160-foot Newton Bald.
The Mingus Mill Trail offers hikers access to the summit of the 5,160-foot Newton Bald.
Ken Lund

Beginning just a half mile from the Oconaluftee Visitor Center, at Mingus Mill, the Mingus Creek Trail is loaded with both history and scenery. The first stretch of the trail is nestled in a Depression-era road bed built by the Civilian Conservation Corps. You’ll travel through bunches of rhododendron, over gushing creeks, and even skirt a historic cemetery. For a longer day hike, the trail also provides access to 5,160-foot Newton Bald, a summit once cleared by early settlers that has since regenerated with new growth forest.

Clingmans Dome and Andrews Bald

Andrews Bald is one of the easiest summits to reach in the park.
Andrews Bald is one of the easiest summits to reach in the park.
Miguel Vieira

For avid hikers — or peak seekers — Clingmans Dome is a must-visit destination. At 6,643-feet, Clingmans Dome is the highest point in the national park and the entire state of Tennessee. Even better, an elaborate observation platform cresting the summit offers panoramic views stretching for 100 miles. The viewpoint is accessible via a short half-mile climb from the Clingmans Dome parking area, or with a more extensive hike on the Appalachian Trail, which meanders directly past the summit’s viewing tower.

In the shadow of Clingmans Dome lies another iconic Appalachian summit, Andrews Bald. The highest but also one of the most accessible balds in the park, Andrews Bald features a meadow-blanketed 5,906-foot summit that is accessible via a 1.8-mile hike on the Forney Ridge Trail, which begins at the Clingmans Dome parking area.

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Featured image provided by Nick Breedlove

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10 Must-Visit Waterfalls in Western Carolina

Western North Carolina is a land of waterfalls. Countless cascades punctuate the waterways braiding the vast expanses of forest and lofty Appalachian peaks dominating the western corner of the state, lending the landscape an undeniably enchanting quality. Some of the falls are accessible only after delving into wild pockets of backcountry, while others are just steps from the state’s tree-lined byways. With the abundance of waterfalls, narrowing down a short list is a formidable of challenge, but these are among the most stunning cascades adorning the North Carolina mountains.

Whitewater Falls

The towering Whitewater Falls.
The towering Whitewater Falls.
Photo Courtesy of JCTDA

Located just outside of Cashiers, in Nantahala National Forest, Whitewater Falls is one of the most awe-inspiring cascades in waterfall-laden western North Carolina — and it has the notable distinction of being the loftiest waterfall east of the Rocky Mountains. The mighty cascade announces itself in rushing roar audible from the trailhead for the half-mile path to the overlook for the 411-foot waterfall. A second, lower view platform, accessible after a descending a steep set of stairs, provides another perspective of the falls, highlighting the sheer scope of the towering flume.

Schoolhouse Falls

Schoolhouse Falls are accessible via a 1.4-mile hike.
Schoolhouse Falls are accessible via a 1.4-mile hike.
Nick Breedlove

Schoolhouse Falls is located in a stunningly wild corner of Nantahala National Forest known as Panthertown Valley. Even though the hike is fairly brief, stumbling upon Schoolhouse Falls feels like a foray deep into the backcountry. The 25-foot waterfall spills in a broad flume, pouring into a tannin-tainted plunge pool turned swimming hole during spring and summer. The falls are accessible along the Panthertown Valley Trail via a 1.4-mile hike from either the Cold Mountain trailhead, on the eastern side of Panthertown Valley, or a 2.4-mile hike from the Salt Rock Gap trailhead, on the western edge. Be sure to be prepared for the rugged hiking in the area with a reliable map.

Silver Run Falls

Silver Run Falls is near the town of Cashiers.
Silver Run Falls is near the town of Cashiers.
Jared

South of Cashiers, in Nantahala National Forest, Silver Run Falls is a popular summer retreat. Compared to some of western North Carolina’s lofty cascades, the 25-foot drop of Silver Run Falls may sound uninspiring. But the broadly spread wall of water spills into an idyllic swimming hole that’s bordered by sizeable stepping stones, providing a unique access to view the falls. The trek to Silver Run is equally restorative — the falls are accessible courtesy of a quarter-mile trail beginning along North Carolina Highway 107.

Mingo Falls

Mingo Falls descends 120 feet in a narrow cascade.
Mingo Falls descends 120 feet in a narrow cascade.
Doug Kerr

Just outside the boundary of Great Smoky Mountains National Park within the confines of the Qualla Boundary (and not far from Cherokee), Mingo Falls is a thin but lofty flume. The nearly 120-foot cascade consists of a series of slender strands of water, all of which funnel together just before tumbling into a pint-sized pool in Mingo Creek. The falls are accessible courtesy of a brief but stair-filled climb of about a half a mile to a footbridge at the base of the cascade, accessible from a trailhead located on Big Cove Road.

Glen Falls

A tiered trio of cascades, Glen Falls tumbles over a broad, rocky section of the east fork of aptly named Overflow Creek, which is located in Nantahala National Forest just outside Highlands. A scenic but strenuous round-trip hike of about 2 miles on the Glen Falls Trail leads to the collection of cascades, with views of Blue Valley early in the trip. The top tier of the falls, which tumbles nearly 70-feet, is visible from an observation area just half a mile down the trail, and the second significant portion of a falls, a wide, 60-foot flume, appears another quarter mile down the trail.

Rufus Morgan Falls

The 60-foot Rufus Morgan Falls is located just outside the town of Franklin. Alan Cressler
The 60-foot Rufus Morgan Falls is located just outside the town of Franklin.
Alan Cressler

Tucked away in a wooded cove in Nantahala National Forest just a few miles outside of Franklin, Rufus Morgan Falls seems much farther removed from any traces of civilization. The 60-foot partially rhododendron-shrouded flume falls flatly over a craggy cliff face and seems to tumble almost unexpectedly out of the thickly grown forest. Despite the isolated feel, the falls are easily accessible after a leisurely, half-mile hike on the Rufus Morgan Trail.

Tom’s Branch, Indian Creek Falls, and Juney Whank Falls

These three waterfalls are In a southern corner of Great Smoky Mountains National Park, not far from the Deep Creek entrance. Tom’s Branch and Indian Creek Falls are easily linked on a brief out-and-back hike. Tom’s Branch, the loftier of two flumes, falls 60-feet, stair stepping a weathered rock face. It will emerge after only about a half a mile hike on the Deep Creek Trail, one of the first pathways in the national park constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps during the 1930s. Barely a quarter of a mile later, after the junction of the Indian Creek Trail, the second cascade appears — the 25-foot Indian Creek Falls.

After taking in the first two falls, tack on a trip to Juney Whank Falls. The trailhead for the Juney Whank Trail is also located in the Deep Creek area of the park, adjacent to the starting point for the Deep Creek Trail. Juney Whank Falls, a slender shimmering ribboning falling for nearly 90-feet in two distinct sections, appears after just half a mile on the Juney Whank Falls Trail.

Bridal Veil Falls

Bridal Veil Falls is outside of Highlands, N.C.
Bridal Veil Falls is outside of Highlands, N.C.
William McKeehan

Just a couple of miles outside Highlands, Bridal Veil Falls is one of the few waterfalls in western North Carolina visitors can drive to — and even behind. The cascade is accessible directly from U.S. Highway 64 along a stretch of North Carolina’s 98-mile Waterfall Byway. Created by a drop in the Cullasaja River, the falls thin out while spilling over a prominent rock ledge, which juts out far enough for people (and even vehicles) to perch behind the plunging flume and admire the tumbling water from underneath.

A note on safety: Heed posted warning signs indicating danger and stay on established trails. Never climb on or around waterfalls and never play in the water above a waterfall. Rocks can be slippery and it’s easy to lose your balance especially with bare feet. Currents near waterfalls can be extremely swift even in areas further upstream.

Never jump off waterfalls or dive into plunge pools at the base of waterfalls. Rocks and logs can be hidden beneath the surface of the water. Often waterfall pools have swirling water or currents that can drag and keep you underwater. Even if you have seen other people enjoy playing around waterfalls, be aware they have been lucky to escape unharmed.

Waterfalls are constantly changing with varying water flows and erosion of the rocks around them. The current from one place to the next may be faster than you anticipate and the arrangement of rocks or other debris such as logs in the plunge pool is ever-changing.

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Featured image provided by Alan Cressler

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3 Amazing Weekend Backpacking Loops in the Smokies

Across the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, miles of interconnected trails meander through lush, green valleys, hug the banks of moss-laden, rocky creeks, and climb through thickets of mountain laurel and rhododendron to the blue-tinged mountain peaks.

You could spend weeks backpacking through this rich landscape, but a weekend trip will also allow you to experience the best of the Smokies. To help you plan your visit, we’ve highlighted three backpacking loops that give you the Appalachian Trail, streamside and ridgeline campsites, killer views, and enough distance and elevation to satisfy your inner weekend warrior.

Big Creek Loop

Combining the best of front-country and backcountry camping, the Big Creek area on the northeastern tip of the park off I-40 offers something for every level of hiker. Tackle a 21.5-mile loop over big peaks or lower your mileage and elevation with a night at one of the sweetest creekside campsites in the park. Either way, you’ll hike the AT through some of the most scenic terrains in the Smokies.

You will be in constant awe of the beauty on Big Creek Loop.
You will be in constant awe of the beauty on Big Creek Loop.
Rock/Creek

Roll into Big Creek Friday night to enjoy campground amenities like restrooms, dinner at a picnic table, and campsites with fire rings. You’ll be up early on Saturday to climb the Chestnut Branch Trail 2 miles to the Appalachian Trail. One of the shortest AT access points, the trail passes the remains of homesteads that pre-date the national park.

Turn south on the AT and continue climbing 3.3 miles to the 0.6-mile Mt. Cammerer fire tower spur trail. At 4,928 feet, the tower overlooks the Pigeon River Gorge to the north and Mt. Sterling to the south. From the fire tower, it’s a moderate descent 2.1 miles to the Low Gap Trail. Take Low Gap 2.5 miles to campsite #37 at the Big Creek Trail junction. Right on the banks of Big Creek, you’d be hhard-pressedto find a more spacious backcountry site in the park.

On Sunday, you can go big or go home, as they say. Going big means a hike up the Swallow Falls Trail 4 miles to the Mt. Sterling Ridge Trail. It’s another 1.4 miles and more climbing to an elevation of 5,842 feet on Mt. Sterling. Climb Sterling’s 60-foot steel fire tower for panoramic views of Cataloochee Valley, the Black Mountains, and the Southern Appalachians. Now, the downhill endurance test begins, with a 4,000-foot elevation loss over 6 miles on the Baxter Creek Trail. If you opt to go home, you can sleep in, savor your coffee by the campfire, and still have plenty of time to hike the moderate, 5-mile descent along Big Creek back to the campground, passing two stunning waterfalls and plenty of swimming holes along the way.

Big Creek loop ends with a 4,000-foot elevation loss over 6 miles on the Baxter Creek Trail.
Big Creek loop ends with a 4,000-foot elevation loss over 6 miles on the Baxter Creek Trail.
virgntn2011

Big Creek Campground is open from April through October and makes a great base camp for groups by serving a wide variety of abilities and interests. On your way home, make sure you leave enough time to refuel at Carver’s Apple Orchard in Cosby, Tenn. At Carver’s you can shop for fresh produce at the farmers market, nab awesome treats at an old-time candy shop, and feast at a homestyle restaurant, where the apple fritters are not to be missed.

Twentymile Loop

In the southwest corner of the Smokies, you’ll find a lesser-used trailhead that leads to the AT and one of the most scenic balds in the park. From this trailhead, you’ll log 17.6 miles on the way to Gregory Bald, sleeping one night on the AT and camping the other night on the bald.

Start off Friday afternoon at the Twentymile Ranger Station off Highway 28 near the border of North Carolina and Tennessee. A non-technical climb takes you 4.5 miles to meet the AT at Sassafras Gap. Campsite #113, at Birch Spring Gap, is less than 1 mile north of the trail junction. If time allows late Friday or early Saturday morning, head south on the AT for 360-degree views at sunset or sunrise from the top of Shuckstack Fire Tower. The historic lookout isn’t regularly maintained, so watch your step on the 200-foot climb to the top.

In the southwest corner of the Smokies you’ll find the lesser-used Twentymile Loop trailhead.
In the southwest corner of the Smokies you’ll find the lesser-used Twentymile Loop trailhead.
Chris M Morris

You’ll resume your northward journey on the AT, traveling 2 miles over Doe Knob to the next trail junction. Next, take Gregory Bald Trail west a little more than 3 miles to campsite #13 on the bald. Known for spectacular flame azalea blooms each year in mid to late June, the grassy high-elevation meadow offers stunning views of Cades Cove, Fontana Lake, and Clingmans Dome.

On Sunday, make the final 6.3-mile descent to the trailhead on the wide, non-technical Wolf Ridge Trail. Refuel at Fontana Village, just over 6 miles down Highway 28, before heading home. Burgers and brews will hit the spot at Wildwood Grill, while the Mountainview Restaurant highlights seasonal produce, along with fresh, local rainbow trout.

Deep Creek Loop

Along Deep Creek loop you’ll pass Indian Creek Falls.
Along Deep Creek loop you’ll pass Indian Creek Falls.
Alan Cressler

Enjoy the streams and waterfalls of the Deep Creek area in the south-central region of the Smokies on this 28.2-mile loop. You’ll also spend a night in an AT shelter and exit on one of the longest continuously descending trails in the Smokies.

You’ve barely left the Deep Creek Ranger Station before you come across Tom Branch Falls and Indian Creek Falls. Once you pass these Insta-worthy stops, it’s a slight uphill grade for 4 miles along the moderately rocky Deep Creek Trail to campsites 54-59. Claim a site for Friday evening (all but one are non-reservable) to enjoy the refreshing waters of Deep Creek and thickly wooded campsites.

Creek crossings and easy bushwacking are on the agenda Saturday, as you hike another 4 miles to the Fork Ridge Trail. Fork Ridge ascends 5 miles to Clingmans Dome Road and the AT. A short hike north takes you to the Mount Collins shelter, where you’ll spend the night in a high-elevation spruce-fir forest and dramatically cooler, drier conditions. Enjoy the shelter amenities, like cozy bunks and a fireplace inside.

Hike down from Clingmans Dome Road to start your final 11.4-mile descent.
Hike down from Clingmans Dome Road to start your final 11.4-mile descent.
Kevin Stewart Photography

The pre-dawn hike south to Clingmans Dome is highly recommended for 360 degrees of sunrise from the highest point in the Smokies. Hike 2 miles down Clingmans Dome Road to the Noland Divide Trailhead to start your final 11.4-mile descent. The trail slopes gently for the first 5 miles before making a steeper drop into Deep Creek, but there are few roots and rocks to slow you down. Make sure you stop to enjoy the views at Lonesome Pine Overlook along the way.

After logging all those miles, nothing’s going to taste more satisfying than a meal and craft beer at The Warehouse at Nantahala Brewing Co. Wrap up your Smokies adventure on the outdoor patio in downtown Bryson City with specialties like the slow-cooked brisket noodle bowl, apple bourbon pork chops, or Bryson City Brown Ale chicken along with a flagship or seasonal draft.

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Featured image provided by Kevin Stewart Photography

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Hiking Chimney Tops

Intro

The twin-peaked, rugged profile of Chimney Tops gained infamy with its appearance on the cover of Horace Kephart’s classic, Our Southern Highlanders. The summit of this 4,724-foot peak has weathered away over the centuries leaving behind a backbone of folded metamorphic rock which has turned into a playground for the adventurous. The trail to the Chimneys was badly damaged several years ago by torrential downpours and flooding. Thanks to the Great Smokies’ Trails Forever Program, a newly renovated trail takes hikers from the trailhead to the airy summit by way of a steep, intricately constructed, two mile trail.

What Makes It Great

The trail to the Chimneys quickly becomes beautiful as it passes over Walker Camp Prong – thanks to the newly constructed and environmentally friendly bridge system– right out of the gate. Get ready to climb after crossing the creek: Chimney Tops’ trail gains 1,700 feet in elevation as it introduces your quads to hiking in the highlands! The trail’s forever crew has created a network of 360 rock steps and nearly 300 log steps which lead to the top of this “stairway to heaven.”

After finally gaining the ridgeline, your legs may be wary Give them a rest to refresh for the fun to come! A short traverse on an airy ridgeline leads to the highlight of the trail: a short, but very exposed, scramble to the crown of the Chimneys. Although technical gear is not needed to ascend this last section, you will see many tourists humbly end their day at the base of this scramble. Take your time, maintain at least three points of contact with the rock at all times, and carefully make your way up the rocky backbone leading to the summit and 360 degree views.

Who is Going to Love It

Thrill seekers will find just what they are looking for atop the Chimneys. An unsanctioned, yet unbelievably fun climb past the first Chimney, across a rocky ridge, and onto the second Chimney will get your blood flowing and guarantee solidarity atop this popular destination. However, this shot at solitude is not for the faint of heart. The route begins with a mandatory down-climb and technical maneuvers are required across some highly exposed sections to reach the second Chimney.

The view westward (across the rolling expanse of Eastern Tennessee) is uninterrupted and affords spectacular sunset views for those willing to descend under the glow of a headlamp.

Directions, Parking, & Regulations

Chimney Tops Trailhead can be found off route 441, on the Tennessee side of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. The Drive from Asheville takes 1 hour and 45 minutes. Experiencing the Chimneys is worth every second of it! Hiking does not require any fees or permits.

Due to terrain and National Park regulations, dogs are not allowed on Chimney Tops Trail.

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Featured image provided by Stewart Photography

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4 WNC Winter Hikes + Their Perfect Beverages

Among the many perks of winter hiking (fewer people, the sweet silence that a blanket of fresh snow brings to the mountains, the diamond sparkle of frost on the grass), none can compare to the bright taste of a well earned hot toddy, the rich indulgence of a hot buttered rum, or that first sip of a toasty winter ale. There’s simply no time to hibernate when there are so many trails to explore and so many cozy pubs to hole up in afterwards. Cheers to these four Western North Carolina mountain hikes, perfectly paired with a libation!

1. Devil’s Courthouse & Hot Buttered Rum

Windblown and snow-covered trees from the Devil's Courthouse.
Windblown and snow-covered trees from the Devil’s Courthouse.
Alex Ford

Sometimes, the winter days of frost and weak sunlight demand an indulgent activity with little effort involved. For some, this might mean ducking under the covers for a movie marathon, but for outdoor enthusiasts whose sanity depends on escaping to the wilderness regardless of the plunging temperatures, the hike to Devil’s Courthouse fits the bill. The trail to the top of this somewhat sinister rock outcrop is only half a mile long, but the views from the top are simply decadent. North Carolina, South Carolina, Georgia, and Tennessee are all visible from the 5,719-foot summit, which is as steeped in folklore as it is in raw beauty.

Such a quick and rewarding adventure should be followed by an equally satisfying cocktail. Cover a pat of soft butter with brown and powdered sugar, tempered with the earthy-sweet flavors of freshly ground cinnamon and nutmeg. Spiced rum and a float of homemade vanilla ice cream round out this rich winter favorite.

2.  John Rock Loop & Salted Caramel Hot Toddy

A hot toddy is the ultimate cold weather cocktail.
A hot toddy is the ultimate cold weather cocktail.
Timothy Krause

John Rock Loop is a WNC classic that concludes with sensational views of the sprawling Pisgah Wilderness, Looking Glass Rock, and the Southern Appalachians fading into a blue haze on the horizon. At the beginning of the hike, set your sites on the rock face in the distance, as you’ll eventually be standing on its summit. A rugged 5.5-mile loop trail will lead you through a forest of tulip trees, white pines, and hemlock, past a small waterfall sheathed in sparkling ice and (eventually) the exposed brow of John Rock.

In the evening, seek out the Salted Caramel Hot Toddy, made with caramel moonshine, fresh lemon juice, and black lava salt. This classic winter cocktail (and cold remedy, they say) pairs remarkably well with the traditional distilled spirits of the Appalachian Mountains. And after your strenuous cliffside excursion, you’re entitled to a little extra sweetness!

3. Chimney Tops & Highland’s Black Mocha Stout

Approaching the rocky summit of Chimney Tops.
Approaching the rocky summit of Chimney Tops.
Shannon McGee

Reaching the rugged, dual-pronged summit of Chimney Tops, one of the few bare rock summits in the Smokies, is not for the faint of heart. This adventure is perfectly suited for anyone looking to spike their winter weekend with a healthy dose of adrenaline.

The trail begins with a series of freshly constructed bridges that crisscross over the cascading waters of  Walker Camp Prong, before jutting upward for a steep and sustained climb to the ridge line. The journey is relatively short, but it packs a punch: in two miles, you’ll ascend 1,700 feet over an elaborate network of stone and log steps until you reach the even terrain and rewarding views of the ridgeline. The final leg of the hike is a highly exposed scramble to the top of the chimney, a nearly technical section of rock that is reminiscent of Colorado’s fourteeners.

Once you’ve returned to solid ground, treat yourself to a local beer that is just as bold and daring as the summit you so recently stood upon. Highland Brewing Company’s Kinsman Black Mocha Stout is part of their innovative Kinsman Project, where seasonal brews are infused with fresh and local ingredients. This warming winter ale is flavored with cacao nibs, cinnamon sticks, vanilla beans, and chipotle peppers for a finished product that is chocolatey-smooth with a kicky finish.

4. Biltmore Trails & Spiked Hot Chocolate

Sunset in the Biltmore forest.
Sunset in the Biltmore forest.
Jonathan Goforth

Biltmore’s exquisite blend of open space and luxe amenities is especially festive when it’s decked out for the holidays. But even when the lights and trimmings are through for the season, 8,000 acres of meadows, forests, and gardens remain a lovely landscape throughout the winter, stark and dramatic or polished with snow. Although the micro-villages within the estate’s boundaries are always a hive of activity, there is solitude to be claimed along the 22 miles of hiking trails, particularly on the Deer Pond Trail and at the Lagoon.

Late afternoon is a lovely time to explore Biltmore, which is located so close to Downtown Asheville that you’ll never have to face a long drive home or navigate a tricky descent in darkness. Experience the peace and serenity of a winter twilight alongside the French Broad River or stroll through the walled gardens as the sky deepens with the colors of sunset.

When you’re ready to warm up, duck into the Biltmore Inn for a Pillow Mint, a decadent hot chocolate triple-spiked with Jameson’s Irish Whiskey, Bailey’s, and crème de menthe and topped with a pillow of whipped cream. As you sip your minted coco next to the roaring fireplace, descending into a state of sublime relaxation, you may find yourself wishing that winter never ends.

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Featured image provided by Alexandre Normand

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Hiking Mt. Cammerer

Intro

Your journey to the top of Cammerer will begin on Chestnut Branch Trail, which runs beside a picturesque creek plunging its way through a rhododendron filled holler for the first mile and half. You will share this section of trail with a group of stoic, old-growth oak trees which were lucky enough to survive the pre-park logging rush of the 1930s. Turning right, and leaving the creekside, the trail gains in elevation towards the ridge line and its intersection with the Appalachian Trail.

What Makes It Great

This intersection is clearly signed and from here you’ll follow the AT south for three miles to the Mt. Cammerer spur trail. After two miles on the AT, there’s a photo-worthy rock outcropping on your left that overlooks the Big Creek water shed. Continue to climb through a fragrant grove of large hemlocks and balsam fir. Upon gaining the ridge line, you’ll will see a clearly-marked intersection for the spur trail that leads to the summit of Mt. Cammerer and the lookout tower. Take your time and relish the last .6 mile of easy trail to the summit as you capture sneak peeks of the views through a tunnel of mountain laurel. A short scramble up an easy rocky section allows your first glimpse of the lookout tower and its 360 degree views.

Who is Going to Love It

Hiking to the lookout tower at Mt. Cammerer is for people who like burly climbs and big views.

What to Bring:

Trekking Poles: The Smokies are notorious for rocky terrain that is perpetually slick from the area’s rain forest like climate. Throughout the hike, your eyes will wander from the beautiful flora to the long range views. Bring your sticks to avoid a slip whilst distracted by such beauty.

Time Lapse Camera: The lookout tower was positioned to have expansive views of the area. A clear view to the east and west make this a prime location for sunrises and sunsets.

One Extra Hour: Start your trip a little early, pack a quality lunch, and take your time to drink in the views from this airy perch.

Tips from a Local:

Climbing Cammerer during the weekdays or in the winter months will give you a chance at solitude on the summit of this highly visited peak.

The giant hemlocks of Appalachia are quickly disappearing due to climate change and an invasive species known as the wooly adelgid. Several large, healthy trees are still living along this trail. Give one a hug and take a picture; one day you can show your grandkids how magnificent these trees once were.

Directions, Parking, & Regulations

The most scenic access point to this peak from Asheville begins from the Big Creek Ranger Station.

From Asheville, drive west on Interstate 40 to the North Carolina/Tennessee line and take exit 451 for Waterville. At the stop sign take a left, cross the large concrete bridge over the Pigeon River and veer left onto Waterville Rd.

Enjoy the close up views of the Pigeon River and be entertained by throngs of rafters in the summer months as you drive on Waterville Road for two miles towards a 4-way stop.

Follow the signs for Big Creek as you continue straight through this intersection. In .2 mile, the Big Creek Ranger Station and your trailhead will be on your right.

Bathroom facilities, trail maps ($1 donation), and overnight permits are available at the Big Creek Ranger Station.

Featured image provided by Logan Mahan

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Hiking Mt. Sterling

Intro

Mt. Sterling towers above the Pigeon River Gorge on the northern end of the Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Sterling is a mountain steeped in history and covered in an elegant mix of hardwood and evergreen forestry.

The mountain was mistakenly named after a 2 foot streak of lead that crosses the Pigeon River on the Northern foot of the mighty mountain. Prospectors flocked in search of silver that was never found. Nowadays, visitors still come in search of metal, in the form of the east coast’s highest remaining fire tower.

On Sterling’s 5,842 foot summit stands a rickety and rusted, 60 foot tower which peaks above the surrounding forestry to give brave onlookers a sprawling view of the surrounding beauties of Southern Appalachia. It’s actually the tallest existing true fire tower in the South. (Want to explore WNC fire towers?)

What Makes It Great

In terms of a view, the one achieved from braving the harrowing and narrowing steps of the Mt. Sterling fire tower is unparalleled. Once you’ve adjusted to the swaying old fire tower, you can enjoy panoramic vistas in all directions.

The most popular approach to Sterling’s summit starts out at Mt. Sterling Gap and involves a 5 mile round-trip through the woods. The Gap is in the middle of a remote and rugged stretch of road that is historically known as “The Old Cataloochee Turnpike.”

From the Mt. Sterling Gap Trailhead, hikers begin their journey on the aptly named Mt. Sterling Trail. For 2.3 miles, the trail winds upwards 2,000 feet along Sterling’s flanks through old-growth fir forests lined with fascinating flora. Once you’ve completed this section of trail, the path turns to the right and gently follows the ridge line of Mt. Sterling for another .4 mile to its summit. The summit is home to a fragrant evergreen forest and backcountry campsite #38.

Water can be found roughly .2 mile past the summit down the well-signed Baxter Creek Trail. Although beautiful, the summit itself does not offer any long range views. View seekers must make their way up the tower to obtain a scenic perspective.

Who is Going to Love It

Adventurous hikers who desire a memorable view are really going to find what they are looking for on this mountain. The tower provides some incredible photo ops and an almost unimaginably expansive view of the Smokies, as well as Pisgah and Cherokee National Forests. If you enjoy the pungent aroma of evergreens, then the forests of Mt. Sterling are the perfect place to come to stimulate your sense of smell.

Hikers looking for a more strenuous day can take the Baxter Creek trail for a strenuous 6.2 mile approach to Sterling’s summit from the Big Creek Campground area.

Directions, Parking, & Regulations

From Asheville, take Interstate 40 west to the North Carolina/Tennessee state line and take exit 451 for Waterville. Turn left and cross the bridge onto Waterville Road. After 2 miles, you will come to a four-way intersection. Take a left onto Mt. Sterling Road and continue for 6.7 miles on the gravel road until reaching the sign for Mt. Sterling Gap.

If you are up for a scenic drive after your hike, continue in the same direction on The Old Cataloochee Turnpike into Cataloochee Valley to view historic sites and famous wildlife. Well marked signs will help you return from Cataloochee Valley to Interstate 40.

No fees or permits are required for a day hike to Mt. Sterling but you must register ahead of time for a spot at backcountry campsite #38.

Featured image provided by Miguel Vieira

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Hiking Max Patch

Intro

The Appalachian Trail follows the crest of the Appalachians along the North Carolina and Tennessee state line. In between the soaring mountains of the Great Smokies and the rolling hills of Hot Springs, the AT passes over the grassy bald known as Max Patch. The man-made meadow on top of the mountain was once home to large herds of grazing cattle. Today, the luscious green summit is home to one of the most acclaimed view-points in the Southeast and the herds have switched from bovine beasts to outdoor enthusiasts. A variety of trails can be used to access Max Patch. The most popular and pedestrian of the choices leads hikers to the grassy summit on a short, half -mile climb to the top.

What Makes It Great

At 4,600 feet, Max Patch is not a particularly high mountain, yet the views from the top are highly acclaimed. The view’s infamy comes from its grass covered summit stage, which offers long range views in every direction. The view is framed to the southwest by the northern giants of the National Park: Mt. Guyot, Mt. Sterling and Big Cataloochee. The Plott and Great Balsam Ranges paint the southeastern skyline while the towering crest of the Black Mountains stands guard to the east and the Roans to the north. The Patch is surrounded by picturesque rolling hills and mountains leading up to these mighty ridge lines in three directions. To the west, however, an uninterrupted view over the lush expanse of Tennessee allows for a famously stunning sunset view.

Several trail options line the sides and summit of Max Path. From the parking lot, visitors can take the direct route to the summit for a 1-mile round trip or the 2.4 miles loop which circumnavigates The Patch. Those looking for a prolonged jaunt through the woods can follow the AT north or south as far as their hearts desire.

Who is Going to Love It

Photographers will find life-list photo opportunities atop Max Patch thanks to its ideal location on the western edge of the Appalachians. Bring your tripod along and set up for spectacular stellar and sunset shots. (Looking for more photogenic landscapes?) Romantics can take full advantage of Max Patch’s beauty by packing a blanket and picnic lunch to the easy access summit. Cap off your romantic evening as you return towards Asheville by taking a dip in the dreamy waters of nearby Hot Springs Resort. Anglers, bring your gear and cast a line in the Forest Service pond just past the parking area. The brave even venture to The Patch in winter for skiing and sledding amongst the sublime scenery.

Directions, Parking, & Regulations

A trio of route options leads to Max Patch from Asheville. If you choose to tackle these routes in winter, come prepared with an emergency kit and snow-worthy vehicle. There is no access fee for the trailhead. Camping is allowed in nearby areas, but is prohibited on the summit itself. Venture just past the summit for the prime locations. Bring your fury friend along for this outing: the area is dog friendly and they will thoroughly enjoy the grassy summit!

Featured image provided by Jake Wheeler

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